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úterý 7. srpna 2018

the Epiphany of Rhodes


 This summer holiday I got entangled into the wishes of my dear beloved boyfriend who prefers to have it all inclusive so I succumbed. Only this once! We chose to go to Rhodes island in Greece into the Lalyssos area, which is about 15 minutes away from the Rhodes main town.
The flight was quite demanding, as we flew in the morning hours and arrived at midnight. There was millions of people at the airport at this hour, a chaotic turmoil and one very drunk or drugged woman, who kept despondendly running around looking for our delegate among myriads of others. It took us at least ten minutes to locate our station and get through the crowds. We then had to find the bus on the colossal bus depot and sit on the bus for another hour, as the crazy woman had a fit of rage and started arguing outside the bus with her husband, drivers, and delegates, smashing her phone on the ground in the process. What a start to our holiday! 
When we finally arrived, we were taken to the main reception and given key room. The bell boy then sat us down into his golf car and drove us away into the annex building, distant perhaps 300 metres away, in the zone of a dead donkey, so to say. My fears came true the moment he took us to the elevator that could barely fit in two people at a time, claustrophobically small, with broken parts in the ceiling and with no air to breath. Fortunatelly, the room was relatively nice and after visible facelift. However, it had a terrible view of nothing in particular, at most the neighboring wall of some unidentified building and there were pigeons sitting in every nook and cranny, looking startled when I discovered them. We were quite thirsty after travelling three hours deprived of a drop of water, so we went to have a drink at the main bar. There were planes flying  across our hotel every ten minutes, which I thought was hillarious, and secretly hoped that one of them doesn´t fall down just when I´m enjoying my Sex on the beach.
In the morning we ventured into the main hotel canteen, where I was taken aback by avalanche of tourists who had the same idea. I have never seen so many people in my life, I mean, having a mutual breakfast. It seemed so unnatural and I suddenly felt slightly sociophobic, to be honest. There was plenty of food for everyone, more than we could ever digest, but I didn´t enjoy this mass moment of maddness, where you consumed and consumed, until you couldn´t consume anymore, as you were devastatingly bursting full and sick from mixture of eggs, sausages, bacon, beans, bread, mushrooms, yoghurt, croissants, coffee and sweet artificial juice. I just couldn´t handle the proprotions of it all and also the noise and movements of all the adults and kids fighting for a free table. Breakfast should be an indulging, private moment, not a football match arena. I nostalgically remembered the great and quiet times in Italy, which was a huge contrast to this experience. The same went for lunch and dinner, only dinner was in much bigger megalomaniac proportions. I couldn´t just decide what meal to have, so I usually chose everything, which not always matched together. If you happened to come late for your dinner, you had a tough luck. You had to queue in a long line and let the staff with walkie talkies navigate you to your table. I was turning into a sociopath more and more each and every day, secretly wishing all these hordes would just magically disappear.
On the second day of our stay, I was already nervous from having nothing to do. If you didn´t lie on the beach or by the swimming pool, there was nothing much else to do than sit in the main bar and drink until you had your mouth glued together with all the sugar. I was bored beyond imagination as we sat in the bar all evening and had nothing else to do than watch Germans play kanasta and see ocassional planes flying above. Maybe bit of a night entertainment would be good. Some kind of live music or little bit of dance. But no, there was absolutely nothing and the idea of spending my time sitting in the same position for another six days seemed unimaginable.
After my litany on how boring the life in hotel resort is, my boyfriend decided we will visit a town of Rhodos the next day. We knew there is a bus station somewhere nearby, so we took a random stroll in that direction and discovered not only a station, but also several markets and seafood restaurant, which cought our attention. The tour to the city could have taken 20 minutes as we were stopping at every station, but it started to get packed the more we approched the city. It was incredibly hot outside and we barely walked, slowly wandering around the old city perimeters and the castle streets and secret corridors. The old city is built within the castle, so you actually walk among the pathways of medieval royal routes,where I could imagine, used to travel the knights on their horses. It was very romantic and photogenic part of town. You could buy a portrait on the street of Artists or visit a Master castle or archeological ruins, but you had to pay for everything. Even taking a photo of a motorbike was prohibited, as there was a sign:“if you want a picture, you need to pay“. There were lovely little restaurants, so we decided to have Mousaka in Rustico. It was nice and comforting, but I have to say, the portion was petite and I can make better Mousaka than they did. The owner kept attending to us all the time and there was even an old musician playing Greek songs and Hallelujah by Cohen on his little guitar, which was sweet. The surprising fact to me was two mosques in the middle of town, so untypical for Greece. After the short stroll in the harbour, we went back to our station and home we went. I discovered a little donkey few yards from our hotel, in an isolated field tied to the tree. He aproached me and quisically studied my ever move, not fully decided if he should bite me or lick my hand. I preferd not to find out which one of those he chose to perform and just took his picture.
The main swimming pool was never really available, as all the people blocked the beds with towels right before breakfast and didn´t leave a single one or two for use. We could never swim in it as there were hundreds of children jumping about (despite the strict prohibition), so we had to put up with the little comfort of the beach beds, which were usually available. The sea looked better from the shore, but it was much worse when you got in. First of all, attempt at going in without any shoes was crazy, second, the amount of sea weed or other debris was at times alarming. The waves were constantly splashing against your face, so I had to use my sunglasess to avoid being blinded. Jaimito was upset at the amount of children, as he would prefer to swim in the swimming pool. He said, next time we´ll look for ADULT hotels only.
The next day we decided to rent a car. The cheapest one was Fiat Panda, but the one we got was the oldest and ugliest that was standing in the parking lot, so when I sat inside, I started protesting and demanding a swap. Jaimito was happy with the choice (eventhough he wasn´t really, only didn´t want to ask for another car), but when I discovered corosive bottom of the seat and bad air conditioning, I won. He went for a swap and got us much more beautiful, decent Nisan Micra, which cost him 5 EU more. I guess it was easier to pay it, than have me angry for the rest of our tour.
We drove from Kremesti, which was our starting position, via Paradisi and in the airport general direction. In Theologos we visited Petaloudes butterfly farm, which was an utter disappointment. They charged 5 EU for a 15 minute climbing up the steep hill through the forest, where was a little stream and several mini waterfalls (yes they called them waterfalls, eventhough they were just ordinary streams running down the cliff). There was a lot of butterflies, but you could barely see them, as their natural colouring was brown and they looked like Red Admiral type, which is common in most European countries. Jaimito carried his heavy rucksack and sweated out maybe a gallon of water, while trying to climb up and kill me at the same time, because it was my silly idea to go there in the first place.
The next stop was an ancient village of Kamiros. It was a city of ruins built on top of the mountain, so we had a beautiful view of the sea. It was a town of ruined stones, pillars and remnants of baths and public houses from pre-helenistic period. We imagined the old time thinkers and philosophers gathering in the local square and debating over cup of beer until the sunset. For Jaimito who loves and adores ruins, quite enjoyable. After this, we headed to the „renown“ beach restaurant Porto Antico, that had a „loud“ advertisement on all leaflets in the area. They said we can have 15 % discount on our meals and that their prices are „reasonable“. The view was nice enough, we looked across the beach onto the sea. But that was where all the fairness ended. The calamari I ordered for 13 EU were four little shrunk circles with one baked potato without salt or any hint of spices. It was actually astounding how much they dared to ask me to pay for it, considering the size portion. We also got no 15% discount! Understandably, the worst restaurant experience of my life in Greece. AVOID PORTO ANTICO my dear beloved friends. Go to the place next door, where everything is half price.
And then we drove a long distance across half of the island towards Lindos. It took perhaps half an hour to get there from our last destination, as we drove alongside the coast and had a wonderful view of the slowly approaching mountains. The little square of Lindos was so busy with traffic and nowhere to park, that we had a difficulty to find a spot for our car and had to drive to a remote street. It was more of a street cobweb rather than a town. There was this donkey station, where were tons of donkies loaded next to each other like bricks, solemnly standing and barely breathing with exhaustion, supporting their tired heads over their buddy´s back. It was very sad sight for me, the lover of donkies. The few guys who run this dirty touristic attraction tried to offer a ride on a donkey like they were selling a funfair ride. When I saw a 40 year old guy who must have been 95 kilos heavy, riding this poor animals´a back and smiling around vigorously like an idiot, I wanted to kick his arse so badly, he would never sit back on it. I wished I could help these creatures from their suffering, but didn´t know how. I understand all this belongs to the Greek kolorit and I understand if a child wants to ride a donkey, but come on, 40 year old guy? We didn´t have the strenght to climb all the way up the steep mountain to visit Lindos castle. It was too hot and we couldn´t wait to jump into a cold sea.
After we wrestled our way out of Lindos, we headed along the coast all way back towards Rhodes town. There is a famous beach, Anthony Quinn bay, where the movie GUNS OF NAVARONNE was made in 1960. So we visited this tiny jewel of a beach, which was not very spectacular at all. Just ordinary beach with few giant stones and smelly dark toilets, where one couldn´t change into swimming gear unless you dared to put your bag into the gross liquidy staff on the ground. We changed in the bushes, helping each other to protect our bodies from the eyes of all voyers. I think I forgot my white pair of shorts on the motorbike, while trying to squeeze into my swimsuit.
The next day we had an option to visit hotel´s own Greek restaurant, but you had to book yourself long ahead of time. We had booking made for 8 pm and it was very nice experience, I have to admit.This time we got a Menu counting nine hors d'oeuvrs, two main dishes and three desserts. We got a platter with tzatziki, spicy cream cheese, meliztanosalata, green and black olives, greek salad with feta, grilled octopus salad and fried squid, chips with mizithra cheese, pork Tigania and crab balls. They were all just small tapas but filling enough to make one complete dish. Then we both chose meat mix grill with village style sausage, chicken leg and pork souvlaki. By the time we ate our way through to pecan pie, we were so full, we couldn´t think of eating another two desserts, so we discreetly vanished. It was all delicious and all praise goes to this little tavern.
It all appears like we were doing nothing but drinking and eating, which is exactly what we did! The very next day we tried the seafood road restaurant, which was actually a fish shop connected with a little bistro, where you could choose freshly made seafood of all kinds. We had each a bowl of seafood paella for 7 EU and then grilled octopus, my first one! And the next day, we went for the same food again, as it was way too tasty to leave behind.
On the second day of our stay, I went to file a complaint as my hairdryer broke down. I reported it at the main reception and the receptionist took a note and said she will take care of it. For the next following six days or so, nobody came to fix it and nobody even cared, so I dried my hair in the balcony. I didn´t want to make a big fuss about what seemed like a minor problem. When we entered the Aqua park for the first time, which could have been on the fifth day of our stay, the lady on the premises stopped us and required to see our bracelet, which we didn´t have. She turned us back to the main reception, where we informed them and the main receptionist crossed herself when she discovered we have been moving about the hotel for all week without it, getting all inclusive service. The guy who inicially accepted us in the hotel on the night of arrival was of course responsible. When we got our bracelets, we could fully use the Aqua park, which we discovered was the best of all places, as you could easily get free sunbed, run under the various funny showers and also get a ride on one of the water slides, which of course, I tried out several times (for the first time in my life) and I had as much fun as never before.

I´ve never seen British people in such amount in holidays as in here. There was the biggest concentration in Rhodes, so it seemed. British, second German, third Czech and Polish. Towards the end we were so heavily overwhelmed by the sweet drinks from the bar. I´ve tried Screwdriver, Cuba Libre, Vodka tonic, Tequila Sunrise, Sex on the Beach, Gin Tonic, El Paradiso…but having too much sugar in my blood by then, I decided that beer is the only one to resfresh myself with. Most of those drinks were made from cheap alcohol and even cheaper versions of tonic and juice. Some of them tasted like toilet cleaners.
On the last day of our stay, we sort of didn´t realize we should check out at certain time, as our departure was scheduled for 9PM. We felt we had enough time and I completely forgot we should be leaving the room by morning, as all of my previous holidays I always had early departure and therefore never needed to know the check out time. What a big mistake! We spent morning hours in Aqua park, then we went to shop for some food into the main street stores, and only after that we returned to our room, where I found an envelope under the door. The time of the letter was 12:30, already half an hour late as the check out was supposed to be 12:00. But since we still didn´t know what´s going on, and the note didn´t say „please you missed your check out time“, I tried to call the reception to no avail and so we had to walk all the way back to main hotel. There we were approached by the receptionist, who six days ago took a note about my broken hairdryer and when she said we will have to pay 30 EU for late check out, we went berserk. She called the manager of reception to deal with us and when she insisted on regulations and our responsibilty to check out on time, we defended ourselves by pinpointing all the problems that their hotel was responsible for. We reminded them about the broken hairdryer and to this, the young receptionist said….“but it´s not my responsibility“, throwing mockingly all her responsibility away. I said, „well, why did you take a note and said you will take care of it, if it´s not your responsibilty. And by the way, whose responsibilty is it then, if not the front desk? The waiters?“ The manager said….“ok ok, so I will check with the maintenance if the hairdryer will be repaired“, and I said“ well, bit late for that now, when we are leaving, lady! “  She said something like „we don´t have an electrician in here“, so I went „well, maybe you should! “Then we reminded them of the elevator that hasn´t worked on several ocassions and Jaime took out his medical reports to show her he shouldn´t be really using stairs. She tried to play it cool and be in charge, but her abilities to save the situation were desparately lacking any skill. We had more arguments against the hotel, then the hotel had against us. After half an hour of sweaty arguing, she gave up and said we don´t need to pay anything. Sometimes you gotta fight for your right. Whenever there is a mistake on the part of the hotel, it seems fine…it´s just a minor issue and they think sorry will heal it. However, if you as a client make one slip up, you have to pay them extra money. What a baloney!  If we were to pay for late check out, they should have paid us for half of the services unmet and unprovided for. Some hotels think just because they are big machinery with loads of lawyers behind them, they can abuse their power. Not exactly the best way to leave your holidays (and we do not argue this way EVER!), but sometimes it´s inevitable to stand your ground. Despite all this, we really did enjoy our stay as we traveled a lot, we tasted fabulous food, we had fun and we didn´t care. But next time guys, be careful what you sign up for. And don´t let them trick you and cheat you off. Until next time. Have a nice summer guys….
our beach on the arrival

when it got really windy

Rhodes port




 
our car

ruins of the Kamros city

in butterfly valley 

Lindos castle


poor donkies waiting for death 

seaview near Anthony Quinn bay

Anthony Quinn beach

my mascot, the donkey


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pondělí 23. července 2018

Calabria, Italy - dream holidays



On Friday the 13th nobody likes to travel. Alas, we did! By us I mean myself and my Mother. The destination was Calabria in Italy, the infamous home for mafia, beautiful italian countryside, food and sea. Our resort was Parghelia, close to Tropea city and the hotel we stayed in was on top of the cliffs, the amazing Santa Lucia https://www.hotel-santalucia.it/ 
We knew the pitfalls of this area, such as a necessity of taking a minibus to get to a beach or the city. We knew that our appartment will not have the most wonderful seaview, as they were all booked out. We also knew that there will be no town in walking distance or promenade to take an evening stroll on. With a hindsight, none of that really mattered. The hotel was clean, beautiful, spacious and full of goodhearted, always smiling staff.
After we set our feet into our room and settled in, we started to explore little by little. We made friends with local head waiter Marcelo, who surprisingly turned out to be of Argentinian origin. He was sweeping the pavement by the swimming pool when we first came, and when I wanted to touch the leaves of a tree, he reprimanded me and gesticulated in desparate yet funny gesture not to go near it….as if sweeping the leaves was the worst job of his life, which probably was. We all had to laugh at it afterwards, while he made friends with us, wiping sweat off his brows. The first hard working employee I´ve seen in a long time!
Our first dinner was delicous. We had ravioli in rich sugo and tuna steak with loads of grilled vegetables. The dining room looked very posh, with all those carpets, chandeliers and twenty waiters who run around in their suits and bows. We also discovered a tiny shop behind our hotel run by a small Italian guy named Antonio, whom we noticed during the dinner. We thought he must have been the owner, as he walked from table to table and chatted vigorously to each customer.
The weather here was very humid and hot, so I was happy to have air conditioning in the room and little balcony with a small view of sea in a distance and small portion of a swimming pool. We were positioned just above the hotel entrance, so we saw all the guests coming in and out, we heard the fountain gurgling, the cicadas singing, the minibus arriving and the hotel staff runing around doing their daily routine. It was all nice and peaceful though. That´s until the night started, and the bunch of Italian singers started to sing until oblivion. The door shutters nor the door itself really helped to block out the terrible sounds. So we gave up and used earplugs, shut the door and turned on the air conditioning, full blast! We were unconditionally grateful for having one of the „better located appartements“, as some people weren´t as lucky.
In the morning, there was a buffet style breakfast, where you could choose from many varieties of sweet buns, sponge cakes and croissants and also yoghurt, cereals, fresh bread, salami, proscuitto, mortadella, scrambled eggs, tomatoes, some fruits and canned plums and peaches. You could accompany this with delicious frothy cappuccino or latte, strong americano or just very sweet red orrange and pinneaple juice. We were happy above our expectations, as we are used to much more meager rations and worse food quality from other destinations in Greece. This was a luxury in comparison! During the breakfast, as a part of your new daily routine, you had to thick off your choices of meals for lunch or dinner, depending on your programme. There was usually a choice of three starters, one of which was soup, three main courses, one of which was fish and one vegetarian option, and two types of vegetable side salads. The desserts were always a surprise, but mostly just a slice of oversweetened ice cream or piece of melon, which in Italian is known as anguría.
After the first breakfast, we had a half an hour of  tedious meeting with our delegate, who kept talking of the history of onion, so called ciopolla, which is famous in the region. We were in a hurry to get to the beach!!! The only interesting information she gave us was, that there was an earthquake close to morning hours. We didn´t even notice.  She did, she told us, because a piece of a bread fell out on her head from a kitchen cupboard. The earthquake was at 3:40,which leaves  her story rather questionable.
 Later we took a minibus that was extremely overloaded, having capacity of just 20 seats. Some of them had to be taken by a spare bus. We travelled about 10 minutes along the coast and through small villages, and under the cliffs with the famous viaducts of Tropea city. Then the bus stopped by a small beach resort, Lido Calypso, where we unloaded and paid our entry fee of 7 EU for two seabeds and umbrella. At first the guy who sat by the little provisional table told me a price of 13 EU, at which I looked startled and said…“sorry, but the guy in front of me paid only 7!“, and then I saw the girl next to him gesturing something like it´s ok…just let them go….because we were from Santa Lucia, and the guests from this hotel have it for cheaper. At least that´s what I gathered.  So we grabbed our seats just wherever there was a free space, which was behind a giant rock, that looked like a meteorite that was short of destryoing whole of Tropea some hundred years ago. We got a place right next to two Slovak couples with kids, who were very friendly and talkative, and gave us their unused ciabattas. Other than these, we haven´t met any Czechs throughout our stay in Calabria, which was very peculiar but very refreshing!
The sea was very tranquil first few days, which is good if you like to swim. I prefer the big waves, and I was meant to have more of them relatively soon. We learnt to combine our seabathing with swimming pool, where there was no one and we could enjoy our lemon beer in the shade of the hotel sunbeds. On a third day we had seafood menu, prawns and mussels, pasta and red scorpion fish, and a seabass fillet, but too much is too much. Having a fish everyday is tempting at first, but after few days you get slightly sick when seeing a fish. So from that day on, we kept ordering pork escalopes with pepper sauce, with lemon sauce, with mushroom sauce…..well….go figure. I was sick of meat after three more days and went back to fish!
The only trouble with Italian entertainment was that they didn´t organise any professional bands in the evening. It was all local production, and by that, I mean guests and animators singing at the karaoke until the midnight hours, when all people would probably prefer to sleep. Sometimes it was bordering on insanity. They sounded like bunch of drunk broken-hearted guys, who sing false italian songs that never saw a hit chart. I think my version of Eros Ramazzotti would be the winner of the night, had I the courage to join!
The clouds have been gathering above Calabria for last few days, so we were expecting some storms. We discovered that it´s quite normal to see a barman working next day as a swimming pool sweeper, or a receptionist working next day as a waiter. Therefore, it was always a nice surprise to find various people at different places.  It was like that game: find Wally,if you know what I mean.
One wonderful day we went to Tropea city at night where we were dropped off by the old Calabrian church, and we wandered through the little cobbled streets with beautiful neat shops and typical Italian restaurants. The town was full of tourists and the usual buzz. There were red onions hanging from every corner, a thing called Nduja, salamis and olives and people with ice creams. We made the same tour the next day, when the weather got very windy and stormy, so we could see the city in the daylight. We met a Polish guy with Ara parrot in the old square and because I am such a goofy person who likes these things,  I wanted to take a photo with it, so all I got was one very bad picture and one half eaten hand, because the parrot didn´t really like humans and preffered to bite them until they all screamed in convulsions and probably died!  Of course the Polish charged me 2 EU for one minute of misery and wanted the same from my Mum, who didn´t even want to have a stupid parrot devouring her arm. We then saw a whole seaview from above, which was a small compensation for our previous suffering.  We had some ice cream, which as my Mother explained, was made with pure milk. True to her word, the ice cream had the same endurance as an iceberg thrown into hot lava! It tasted delicious, but you had to lick it like a thirsty dog, unless you preffered to drink it. We had time to buy some sundried tomatoes and bergamot pasta. We were waiting for our bus that never arrived, so we changed a plan and went to the beach by foot. The best things happen when you least expect them, so they say.  The big storm arrived by then and there were only few people scattered about and the  giant waves were glorious to watch. So we enjoyed the marvellous, powerful mother nature for  a while.  
The last few days we were desparately looking for a lemon and Nduja, the local traditional meat pate, which we got to taste due to Gateano, one of the eight brothers who owned Santa Lucia, as Marcelo later told us. We met Gaetano earlier on, but this time, when we tried to order Ice coffee, my Mum stroke a conversation in Italian and they chatted for another hour, by which time, Gaetano started enjoying himself too much and gave us a taste of Calabrian Amaretto, a slice of his snack, which was bread with Nduja, and plastic cup of chilled local wine. What a great and friendly attention!!! In the end he brought us cups of iced coffee to our sunbeds and when I presented him our paycard, he simply waved it off. So this is a way to a heart of Calabrian. They are all nice and sweet people under their tough, sun parched skin and they have more kindness in their cold blue eyes, then you would think. When I told Gaetano about how nice was Marcelo to us, Gaetano laughed and said....Marcelo is good guy. But he is Argentinian bastard and cornuto, which basically equals to asshole. It was so funny, when Gateano forced my Mum to repeat these words to Marcelo, after what he came to his shift and Marcelo shook her hand and simply answered:"nice to meet you, I´m Argentinian". 
I finally got what my heart craved for. The giant waves, that I used as a jumping pillows. They were so huge, that they exceeded me by metre and half at times. One of them hit me hard from back, splashing all over my head, another one sent me to my knees with an extraordinary power. It literally spat me out like a chewing gum and I was just a little crabby creature, trying to crawl out on my all four. I was horrified that another one will come and finish me off. My Mum stood by on the shore and laughed like insane But it was all a great fun and I would do it again for sure!
The last day we said goodbye to our beloved Marcelo, who was waiting for us at the bar, and we slowly proceeded to pack our suitcases. This was a very beautiful place to be in and I would say, one of the few that I really fell in love with due to its people and the natural beauty. And Nduja is soo good, you will want to eat it everyday. Spicy and extraordinary like Calabria, the home to great Italians, who never lost their spirit, no matter how poor they have gotten. 



view of Lido beach from the top of Tropea city


sea view close to lido Calypso 

me and Mum in town

Gaston, the bitey bastard of a parrot

during the storm

Marcelo, Gaetano and Mum, talking about cornutos 

stormy Tropea

our Argentinian friend, Marcelo







lazying around, the queen of a swimming pool




delicious seafood starter, delights of the sea

amazing ravioli

what a breakfast!!!!






úterý 8. srpna 2017

Vassiliki, Lefkada

Trip to Vassiliki in Lefkada was my first taste of this iconic island so often talked about by others. It was last minute choice and I went with my Mum. Right after the arrival to airport in Lefkada, we were taken by one of the buses directly to our destination, which took about hour and a half. We drove through the main city and its bay, so interestingly conjoined to the mainland by a bridge that was opening up from time to time, to allow the seawater to pass through. In Vassiliki town, we were dispatched from our cozy bus seats and told by Klara (who was our tour guide in Samos several years ago), that residents of Rania and Leonidas hotels will have to take off their suitcases and transfer them onto the awaiting truck and then follow this truck towards their hotels, as the harbour was being in the process of reconstruction. We had to laugh at the image of us, dragging ourselves behind some smelly truck. So there we were, a group of about twenty people, swaying behind each other in almost a noon´s heat. Our truck was lacking far behind us and my mother realised that she put her bag with all documents and money on the driver´s seat, so when I reminded her that it was not very clever idea, she started panicking and looking for the truck, which was nowhere in sight. In the end, we found the truck , as we were steered by the owner of the hotel, who stood in the middle of the road and signalised which way to go.
loading our suitcases on a truck was a real challenge
Rania was  at the very end of Vassiliki  and sat on a top of a small hill,nicely overlooking part of the bay. We got very small room with very large balcony, neighbouring with famous Czech couple of actors. My Mum was so tired from the march of the death, that she kept saying things like „wash those breads“ (wash those dishes) or „I´m so tired from that train“. Our room was the size of a baby room with tiny kitchen (which was basically just a sink for two cups and a double cooker). The only plus was a large balcony, overlooking part of the sea and several roofs of other guest houses.
our view off the balcony was calming
After our arrival, we ventured into the town, to see what is hiding amidst those quiet little streets and were quite surprised to find neat boutiques, bakeries, artisan shops, coffee houses and jazz bars. On the other side, the surrounding of our guest house was slightly more isolated and the beaches were lining the road one next to the other, looking rather overcrowded. The furthest beach has lot of big stones and the access is almost impossible without shoes. We´ll try the middle beach tomorrow, but we´ll have to get up at 6 am to grab good positions!
the town promenade



















We had a chance to make friends with our actor neighbours. The wife came to our flat and was very upset with the travel agency, as she had a kettle full of corosion. They bought a holiday for two weeks, and it almost seemed she would prefer to cancel the whole thing at once. Our Greek landlord, an older grey haired guy, owns a motorbike that appears to be made of wood. He keeps parking it in front of the stairs leading off the house, so we have to squeeze around it. In the evening we went to town at the end of promenade, where we had beef stifado and chicken souvlaki. The couple of young guys were serving us, but when we were about to pay, the guy came over asking us our names and shaking our hands, but then walked away, pretending we didn´t ask him for a bill. In the meantime, a fanciful piece of nature visited us,a multicolored cat with streeks of red, white and black all over its body and face, and kept sitting next to our table like the most well behaved dog. It took the staff to bring our bill another twenty minutes, which was quite frustrating. In the end, we got money returned and short of one euro. The waiter didn´t  ask for a tip. He just took it!!! The food was good, but this way of service will not bring us there ever again….

Stifado


our multicolored friend
In the morning, we went to take a swim on the first beach, which is the best and also the most loaded with people since early hours. Its U shape allows only tens of people, as you would imagine. We sunbathed only until 1pm and then went home for lunch. It´s quite hot during lunch time, so it´s very easy to stay on instant soups until the evening, without going hungry. Me and Mum played Člověče nezlob se (man, don´t get pissed off), which is a table game of our childhoods. The deal was that the loser of first game will have to pay drinks at the swimming pool bar. Mum was the loser. I lost the second and third game, which made me a double loser and I was obliged to pay our dinner and prepare the breakfast next day. When we walked later to swimming pool, we met the actors again and chatted for a while, and when we continued, I managed to fall into a huge hole in the road and twist my ankle. I flew headlong through the air and of course fell pretty hard on my knee. With bleeding wounds all over my poor old body, we had to return home and attend to my multiple injuries. I felt like a five year old, being taken care of Mummy, who gave me plasters. Then we repeated the whole journey again, this time with me being more carefull and avoiding the gaps. We nested at Appolo pool bar, which was more or less a public swimming pool, where you could stay all day if you bought some drinks. It was great plan, as there were sunbeds, wifi connection, a glorious seaview, tasty drinks and not so many people. We tried non alcoholic Mojitos and Mythos beer.





In the evening we tested a new restaurant called Dolphin. It co-operated with our Czech travel agency, so they also had menu in our language, and although the waiter promised to give us discount, he didn´t, but we knew he was only using it as a marketing trick. We know these cheeky Greek people pretty well by now. I had Klefitiki and Mum had Rabbit stifado, both delicious. Full like two barrels of gunpowder, we made our way back home, where we chatted in the humid night air until 2 am and talked of our past live´s traumas.


Today we did the same routine, the beach – lunch – swimming pool (where we had to queue for a place), and then dinner of Gyros and a long walk along the coast towards the windsurfing beach resort, claimed by British tourists. This resort was separated by stony, unfinished road and it was literally a rich guy´s paradise for rich Brits who loved windsurfing. They had no little guest houses with corosive kettles here, that was for sure. This was a top luxury resort with 5 star hotels. The young Brits sat all around in bars and drank Heineken in unison. But to be honest, this artificially manmade town didn´t appeal to me as much as our „poor quarters“. At least we lived among the authentic Greek people and experienced the Greek life. That´s why people come to Greece after all, isn´t it?



Today after breakfast  that I made (yes, I lost in Člobrdo again!), we went straight to the swimming pool where was not a single soul. Then we went home for lunch, that I was making….and then we went to the middle beach with only couple of people. Right at the moment when I told my Mum that I wonder where our neighbours are, the actor´s wife just appeared in the water under our feet like a Lochness. We chatted for a bit, while her husband sat on their favorite bench. She then left and we continued sunbathing until we heard someone shouting from above „it´s prohibited to swim here!“, in a good humoured tone. It was our neighbour actor, trying to be funny. There was some Czech family next to us, a couple of naked lesbians and our Greek landlord. A quite nice bunch. Tired by the heat and exhausted by dehydration,  we dragged ourselves to the swimming pool once again, and quenched our thirst by cold Mythos. Then we decided to go for the best Calamari under the Greek sun, into the tavern called Aqua. The service was perfect, as the owner himself was parading among the tables and there were no spaces free, which is the index of quality. After our self indulging dinner, we took a stroll through the streets full of nice artisan shops. This was the first Greek town, where I haven´t seen the typical kitschy stuff and souvenirs, that can be seen elsewhere, which was total surprise. In the end we tried coconut and mango ice cream, sat on the promenade by the harbour and watched the busy night life.





Later on, at night, we were woken up by some loud Russian neighbours, who talked on their balcony until 3 am. Our actor neighbours had a balcony just above them, but either they were deaf and didn´t  hear them, or just didn´t bother making a fuss. I was ready to throw a saucepan at them if they have not stopped.


Today we went to our swimming pool. The Czechs are so calculative it hurts. As we noticed, most of them left their sunbeds occupied by their towels and books and other stuff, while leaving for several hours (to take a nap, to swim in the sea, to have a lunch etc.) only to block the places for others, who had to sit at the bar and wait for free bed. Typical small town Czech behaviour. Of course, the ones that sat at the bar today, were US! I had to cool down my temper by cold Fredducino, but when I lost my patience, I grabbed my stuff and just went and took over one of the beds. Nobody said a word to me. If they did, they would fly across the nearest wall! So this way we relaxed until 4pm and then returned home for late lunch consisting of instant soup. In the evening we went to Aqua for another great dinner experience, this time Musaka. The owner already noticed us, and gave us a warm welcoming smile. Mum finished herself off by a strawberry ice cream . At night the Brits had a disco party and whole of Vassiliki town had to listen to it. I had to prepare myself for yet another night of mosquito attacks. They only like my blood, Mum doesn´t have a single bite, while I´m like a victim of a machine gun shooting.

This day was almost the same like the others, except that in the evening we went to Aqua for another Calamari and were full halfway through. I left at least six calamaris on the plate, as I couldn´t even breathe anymore. I didn´t want to look like a poor tourist from Czech republic, who takes his leftovers into a doggie bag. I pretended I´m a rich globetrotter instead, and left everything on the plate (secretly calculating how much money I´ve just paid, and suffering in agony as a result).


Today was Hallelujah day. All Czech people left home as a new batch just arrived. The swimming pool was abandoned. We got two delicious homemade lemonade jars.
It was truly a relax, until the moment when my Mum noticed our actor neighbours on the bench and wanted me to take a photo with them. I was of course reluctant, as I didn´t want to intrude, but as we walked home around them, she forced me to come towards them and confront them. They promised the photo, but first of all, they invited us to a little goodbye party on their balcony in the evening, which we accepted.
The balcony party was great, as my Mum had a lot in common with actors in general. She used to work for the theatre and movie studios, so she knew a lot of famous people and could talk about them. We drank wine, laughed all night, they told us funny stories and so the time went by and then my Mother realised she still didn´t have her suitcase packed. We parted at 2 am and it was a hell of a morning, as my Mum was packing her stuff and none of our mobiles had a correct time setting. Fortunatelly my Mum didn´t sleep at all, so she woke me up just in time for the truck. By truck I mean the same truck that brought us here – we had to load our suitcases on it and follow it back through the town.
All in all, this trip was an amazing experience full of fun and nice people we´ve met, great food and swim. We avoided the big famous beaches of Lefkada, eventhough we had a chance to go there, but for us this time, it seemed like this is all we wanted.


As a courtesy of ALBI store, I´ve been using their travel products on this journey as shown in the photo. They came very handy indeed. Thank you ALBI for giving me such marvellous presents. Fr more info go on: https://eshop.albi.cz/original-kolekce/